RESEARCH

DISSERTATION

L. Toussaint, Wearing Technology: When Fashion and Technology Entwine. PhD dissertation. Supervisors: Prof.dr. A.M. Smelik (Radboud University Nijmegen), Prof.dr.ir. Peter-Paul Verbeek (University of Twente, Enschede). Defended at Radboud Universiteit, Nijmegen, 6 September 2018. Click here to download the e-book.

ACADEMIC PUBLICATIONS

Nachtigall, T.R., O. Tomico, R. Wakkary, S. Wensveen, P. van Dongen, L. Tenthof van Noorden, ‘Towards Ultra Personalized 4D Printed Shoes’. Extended Abstracts of the 2018 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems, p. CS20. ACM, 2018.

Smelik, A., ‘New Materialism: A Theoretical Framework for Fashion in the Age of Technological Innovation’. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 5 (1) 2018: 31-52. ISSN 2051-7106. doi: 10.1386/infs.5.1.31_1. [open access: download here]

Smelik, A., ‘Wearable Technology, or: Science Fashion’. In: R. Braidotti & M. Hlavajova (eds.), The Posthuman Glossary. London: Bloomsbury, 2018: 455-458. ISBN 9781350-030251.

Smelik, A., L. Toussaint & P. van Dongen, ‘Solar Fashion. An Embodied Approach to Wearable Technology.’ International Journal of Fashion Studies, vol. 3 (2) October 2016: 287-303. ISSN 2051-7106. Doi: https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.3.2.287_1. [open access: download here]

L. Toussaint and A. Smelik (2017) ‘From Hardware to Softwear: The Future Memories of Techno-Fashion’, in: Memories of the Future: On Countervision, D. Jaffé and. S. Wilson (eds.), Peter Lang AG.

Tomico, O., Hallnäs, L. Liang, R.H., Wensveen, S.A.G. Towards a Next Wave of Wearable and Fashionable Interactions. Editorial. International Journal of Design 11 (3), (2017) 1-6.1.

A. Smelik (2017)  ‘Cybercouture: The Fashionable Technology of Pauline Van Dongen, Iris Van Herpen and Bart Hess’, in: From Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion, A. Smelik (ed.), London and New York: I.B. Tauris, pp. 252-269.

L. Toussaint (2017) 14 short designer profile texts (including Jan Taminiau, Bas Kosters, and Anouk Wipprecht) in: From Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion, A. Smelik (ed.), London and New York: I.B. Tauris.

L. Toussaint and A. Smelik (2017) 'Memory and Materiality in Hussein Chalayan's Techno-Fashion' in: Materializing Memory in Art and Popular Culture, L. Muntéan, L. Plate and A. Smelik (eds.), New York: Routledge. [open access article: download here]

A. Smelik, L. Toussaint, and P. Van Dongen (2016), ‘Solar Fashion. An Embodied Approach to Wearable Technology’, in: International Journal of Fashion Studies, Volume 3, Issue 2, October 2016. [open access article: download here]

Tomico, O. and Wilde, D. ‘Soft, Embodied, Situated & Connected: Enriching Interactions with Soft Wearables. In MUX: The Journal of Mobile User Experience, 5 (1), (2016) 3.

NON-ACADEMIC PUBLICATIONS

L. Toussaint (November 2016) 'Wearable Surveillance I: GPS trackers and 'quantified otherness'' on: Culture Weekly, Cultural Studies blog, Radboud University Nijmegen.

A. Smelik (September 2016) 'Cool and Trendy: New Materialism' on: Culture Weekly, Cultural Studies blog, Radboud University Nijmegen.

A. Smelik (October 2015) 'Cybercouture: twitteren met je trui' on: Culture Weekly, Cultural Studies blog, Radboud University Nijmegen.

L. Toussaint (January 2015) 'What if Wearable Tech Were Truly Wearable' on: Culture Weekly, Cultural Studies blog, Radboud University Nijmegen.

A. Smelik (December 2014) ‘Cybercouture: emotional jeans or a twittering sweater’, on: Culture Weekly, Cultural Studies blog, Radboud University Nijmegen.

A. Smelik (2014) ‘Cybercouture: je mobieltje opladen met je jurk’, in: Het beste idee van 2014. Uitgeverij De Wereld: 168-9.

A. Smelik, 'Cybercouture: twitteren met je trui'. In: Het beste idee van 2013. Uitgeverij De Wereld, 2013: 116-7.

A. Smelik, 'Fashionable Technology'. In: Mode@MOTI: Design for Debate. Breda: Museum of the Image, 2013: 54-61.

ORGANIZED EVENTS

Debate event ("whataboutery") during The State of Fashion, entitled ‘Between Sense and Making Sense’ (8 June 2018 @ Melkfabriek, Arnhem). The programme of the event included: • Smelik, A., Introductie ‘Crafting Wearables’; • Pauline van Dongen, ‘A Designer's Material Aesthetics Reflections on Fashion and Technology’, • Lianne Toussaint, ‘Wearing Technology : When Fashion and Technology Entwine'.

O. Tomico (4 June 2014) (Wearable) Tech meets design, High Tech Campus, Eindhoven. It consisted on an exhibition and presentations co-organized with Accenture and Bright Magazine. National and international exhibitors and presenters related to the field of ultra-personalized fashion (e.g. P. van Dongen, CuteCircuit) and connected health (e.g. Marina Toeters, Kristin Neidlinger).

Hypercrafting Fashion with P. van Dongen (6 February 2014) At Careful Designs, Waag Open Space, Amsterdam.

ORGANIZED WORKSHOPS

Tomico, O., Digital Craftsmanship Days on Fashion and Sustainability at the Xarxa d'Ateneus de Fabricació, Barcelona, 16 & 23 February 2018

Tomico, O., Soft Skin workshop with ArtEZ i EURECAT, Creative marathon at ELISAVA, 18-21 December 2017

Tomico, O., and Pauline van Dongen, Summer school ‘transitory textiles’ with at EURECAT and ELISAVA 2-6 July 2018

D. Wilde, O. Tomico, A. Lucero, K. Höök and J. Buur (17 August 2015) Embodying Embodied Design Research Techniques (workshop), Published in proceedings, Critical Alternatives, 5th Decennial Aarhus Conference. Association for Computing Machinery. (Peer reviewed for a conference)

A. Lucero, D. Wilde, S. Robinson, J.E. Fischer, J. Clawson and O. Tomico (24 August 2015) Mobile Collocated Interactions With Wearables (Workshop), Proceedings of the 17th International Conference on Human-Computer Interaction with Mobile Devices and Services: Mobile HCI. Association for Computing Machinery. (Peer reviewed for a conference)

O. Tomico (10-21 November 2014) Crafting wearables, #2 two-week workshop co-organized between TU/e Masters and Fashion Masters program in ArtEZ, Eindhoven.

O. Tomico (27 October - 7 November 2014) Crafting wearables, two-week workshop, part of the fashion and textile bachelor curriculum at the Swedish School of Textiles (Böras) with participation of master students from Umeå Design School and collaboration from the Interactive Institute. THS, Borås, Sweden.

PUBLIC PRESENTATIONS

Smelik, A., ‘Fashion, Wearable Technology and Sustainability’, Aalborg University Denemarken, 10 december 2018

Smelik, A., ‘Fractal Folds: Fashion in the Age of Technological Innovation’, for General Theory Forum We Want Everything, the Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA) and Chelsea, Camberwell and Wimbledon College of Arts, University of the Arts, London, 14 March 2018

Smelik, A., ‘New Materialism as a Theoretical Framework for Fashion Studies’, RMIT Melbourne (Australië), 27 april 2017

Smelik, A., ‘Toekomstscenario’s in de mode’, Scenarioplanning rechtspraak, Arnhem, 11 november 2016.

Smelik, A., ‘Mode, technologie en identiteit’, bij tentoonstelling Bas Kosters, Museum Arnhem, 1 september 2016.

Smelik, A., ‘Crafting Wearables: a Plea for Slowness’, Graduate Centre, City University of New York: 29 februari 2016.

Smelik, A., ‘Cybercouture, or Fashionable Technology’. Studium Generale Rietveld Academie, Amsterdam: 16 januari 2016.

Toeters M.J. et al (2018). Fashion? Future design for the present. Part of Dutch Design Week @Campina / Melkontvangst. Oktober 20-28, 2018. Eindhoven

Tomico, O., ‘Soft Wearables’, Fashion Tech event by Creative incubator, Tallin Design Week. September 2017

Tomico, O., ‘Textile thinking, crossing over disciplines and scales’. Design Festival main seminar DesignCulture, Tallin Design Week. September 2017

Tomico, O., ‘Soft Wearables’, speaker at the Distributed Design Marked research project, IAAC, Barcelona (19th of March 2018).

Tomico, O., ‘Working in the interdisciplinary field of soft wearables and smart textiles’ Invited Speaker, wear sustain project final event, Brussels presentation 21 November, 2018.

Toussaint, L.,‘’Mode & Technologie: Duurzame (?) Innovaties’, Symposium Green Capital Fashion Nijmegen, St. Stevenskerk, Nijmegen, 25 mei 2018.

Toussaint, L. ‘Mode en technologie: harmonieus huwelijk of heet hangijzer?’, lezing in het kader van de cursus ‘Innovatiereeks,’ Volksuniversiteit Arnhem, 31 oktober 2017.

Toussaint, L. ‘Draagbare technologie: De aantrekkingskracht van de techno-mode’, SSBA Salon i.s.m. First of August, Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam, 14 september 2016.

Toussaint, L., ‘Think Tank | Thoughts on Merging Fashion and Technology’, Embracing Fashion and Technology Seminar, Atelier Néerlandais and CLICKNL | Next Fashion, Parijs, 10 februari 2016.

Toussaint, L., ‘Between Transparancy and Transformation: Understanding Embodied Experiences of Techno-Fashion’, Research School for Media Studies (RMeS) Winterschool & Graduate Symposium, Rijksuniversiteit Groningen, Groningen, 27-28 januari 2016.

Wensveen, S. A. G. (2018). ‘Constructive Design Research’. Inaugural Speech. October 19, 2018. Eindhoven University of Technology.A. Smelik (15 oktober 2015) ‘Cybercouture: over mode en technologie’ at Het Tijdelijke Modemuseum in Het Nieuwe Instituut, Rotterdam.

A. Smelik (3 oktober 2015) ‘Draagbare technologie: een jurk met zonnepanelen’ at Alumnidag, Radboud University Nijmegen.

A. Smelik (25 september 2015) Visual talk on wearable technology at Radboud Researcher’s Night, LUX Nijmegen.

P. van Dongen (18 September 2015 ) ‘Fashion as an embodies interface’ at TEDxArnhem, Sonsbeekvilla, Arnhem.

P. van Dongen (12 September 2015 ) ‘Crafting Wearables’ at Vrij Nederland 75 jarig jubileum, Stadsschouwburg, Amsterdam.

P. van Dongen (6 September 2015) ‘Welcome To Tomorrow’ at Into The Great Wide Open, Vlieland.

P. van Dongen (24 June 2015) ‘When Fashion and Technology merge together’ at Dutch Culture event, Het Huis, Utrecht.

O. Tomico (4 June 2015) ‘Ultra-personalized fashion & connected health’ at High Tech Campus, Eindhoven. (Wearable) Tech Meets Design, High Tech Campus, Eindhoven.

P. van Dongen (4 June 2015) ‘Crafting Wearables’ at Bright Night, High Tech Campus, Eindhoven.

M. Toeters (2 June 2015) ‘Smart Fashion is economie én empathie’ at Wearable Electronics-Smart Fashion: Electronics and Automation Conference, Jaarbeurs, Utrecht.

A. Smelik (1 juni 2015) Panel on ‘Digital Couture, Virtual Worlds’, AMFI and Willem de Zwijger Pakhuis Amsterdam.

P. van Dongen (1 June 2015) ‘Crafting Wearables’ at INDESEM 2015, Faculteit Architectuur TU Delft, Delft.

O. Tomico (14 May 2015) ‘Close to the body, Reflections on the role of the context, the body for material explorations in interaction design’ at IAAC Spring Lecture Series 2015, IAAC, Barcelona.

P. van Dongen (19 April 2015) ‘Wearable Technology’ at ODD talks, Galerie Bart, Nijmegen.

P. van Dongen (21 March 2015 ) ‘Crafting Wearables’ at Oud Nieuws Festival, De Lindenberg, Nijmegen.

A. Smelik and J. Teunissen (10 March 2015) ‘Mode voor morgen. Tussen expressie en duurzaamheid’ at Soeterbeeck Programme, LUX Nijmegen.

O. Tomico (2015) ‘Close to the body’ presentation at HeimTextil Theme Park.

P. van Dongen (14 December 2014) Interview during Fashion Night, WOW Amsterdam.

P. van Dongen, (4 December 2014) ‘Crafting Wearables’ at Turkey Innovation Week,  Istanbul.

L. Toussaint (20 November 2014) Moderation breakout session on ‘Materiality and Experience’ at Symposium ‘The Future of Fashion is Now’, Boijmans van Beuningen Museum, Rotterdam.

P. van Dongen (13 October 2014) ‘Wearable Technology’ at TEDxMaastrict, Theater aan het Vrijhof, Maastricht.

A. Smelik (8 October 2014) 'Fashionable Technology', keynote lecture at SOFT Symposium on Fashion Technology, Royal Academy of Art, The Hague.

L. Toussaint (8 October 2014) 'Pretty Smart Wearables', public presentation at SOFT Symposium on Fashion Technology, Royal Academy of Art, The Hague.

EXHIBITIONS

The endresults of Crafting Wearables were presented during the event/exhibition State of Fashion. Searching for the New Luxury in June/July 2018 at the Melkfabriek in Arnhem. José Teunissen, one of the Crafting Wearables team members, curated the exhibition. Several designs and a video-installation by Pauline van Dongen were exhibited.

Exhibition organized by Crafting Wearables team member Marina Toeters (by-wire.net) at the Dutch Design Week 2018: Fashion? Future Design for the Present, 20-28 October 2018, Eindhoven. The exhibition displayed the designs of Pauline van Dongen and 40 other designers, developpers and technicians.

Between 2016 and 2018 the work of Pauline van Dongen was exhibited at: CUBE Museum / “LUXE? Veranderende verlangens” (2018, Kerkrade), Wageningen University / “Fashioning the future” (Wageningen, 2018), V&A / “The Future Starts Here” featuring the Solar Shirt (Londen, 2018), BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN / “CHANGE” featuring Issho (Rotterdam, 2017), LA GAITE LYRIQUE / Look Forward Fashion Tech Festival (Parijs, 2017, SXSW / ”New Dutch Wave” featuring Issho (Austin, USA, 2017), DUTCH DESIGN WEEK / “Making Your World” featuring the Solar Windbreaker (Eindhoven, 2016), HET NIEUWE INSTITUUT / “What’s next” featuring Skynfeel Apparel (Rotterdam, 2016), WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM / Featuring the Solar Shirt (2016), LILJEVALCHS / “Utopian Bodies: Fashion Looks Forward” featuring the Solar Dress (Stockholm, 2016), MUSEUM OF FINE ART BOSTON / “Techstyle” featuring Solar Dress (Boston, USA, 2016)

‘Utopian Bodies: Fashion looks forward’ at Liljevalchs Art Gallery, Stockholm, 25 September 2015 – 7 February 2016. Liljevalch’s exhibition maps out imaginable futures for the adorned body and focuses on the positive aspects of fashion, rather than expatiate on the problems. The exhibition is supported by: AMFI Fastigheter, ASFB, H&M, Gudrun Sjödén, Pro Suecia Foundation and Patrikson Communication.

‘My shirt is breathing’ at Beit Ha’ir, Tel Aviv, 25 March 2015 – 28 October 2015. The exhibition focuses on the moments when the distinction between the real and the virtual remains unclear. The exhibition has a broad subject: from gaming to fashion, technology and virtuality, to the moment when the body becomes and object and the object becomes the body. The exhibition is curated by: Ayelet Bitan-Shlonsky

“Be-tween” process video shown in the exhibition at the Wear It Conference, 24-25 September 2015, Berlin.

‘The Future of Fashion is Now’ at Boijmans van Beuningen, Rotterdam, 11 October 2014 – 18 January 2015. The exhibition was curated by J. Teunissen and includes wearable technology designs P. van Dongen, Hussein Chalayan and Ying Gao. On November 20, 2014 a thematic symposium was organized as part of the exhibition. During the event, several speakers discussed the different themes around which the exhibition ‘The Future of Fashion is Now’ is organized. Speakers included Crafting Wearables team members J. Teunissen and L. Toussaint: www.futureoffashion.nl

‘In No Particular Order’ at Dutch Design Week, Eindhoven, 18 October 2014 – 26 October 2014. The exhibition shows the results of the work of 20 artists who have received a fund of the Dutch Creative Industry Fund, that led to them being able to work freely for a year. http://stimuleringsfonds.nl/nl/het_fonds/talentontwikkeling/talenten_2013_2014/ The exhibition is curated by: Agata Jaworska,

CONFERENCE PRESENTATIONS

Hauser, S. (Co-Organizer), Wakkary, R. (Co-Organizer); and van Dongen, P., Robbins, Toussaint, L., Wiltse, H. (Panelists). (2018) ‘Postphenomenological Design Research Investigations’. A Panel at the 2018 Conference on Human-Technology Relations: Postphenomenology and Philosophy of Technology (PHTR 2018). University of Twente, The Netherlands.

Alongside The State of Fashion, a conference was organized: ‘Fashion Colloquium Searching for the New Luxury’, May 31– June 1 2018. Several members of Crafting Wearables were involved in this conference: Pauline van Dongen and Lianne Toussaint presented a paper entitled ‘In Touch with the Now: Stimulating Mindfulness through Smart Fashion’. Anneke Smelik was a member of the Scientific Committee and presented the concluding remarks, was a respondent for a keynote lecture, and a moderator for 3 panels. José Teunissen presented the opening. The catalogue of State of Fashion. Searching for the New Luxury is available online in both English and Dutch. Page 186-191 discuss the designs of Pauline van Dongen.

Tomico, O., Expert panel at the Fair Fashion Tech Event. Design Lab, University of Twente, 8 Feb 2018.O. Tomico (25 September 2015) ‘Textile thinking crossing over disciplines and scales’, presentation at Wear It Conference, Berlin.

O. Tomico & D. Wilde (2015) 'Soft, Embodied, Situated & Connected', in Proceedings of the 17th International Conference on Human-Computer Interaction with Mobile Devices and Services: Mobile HCI. Association for Computing Machinery.

A. Smelik (18 June 2015), ‘Crafting Wearables: a Plea for Slowness’, Conference Presentations at Fashion Tales, International Conference, ModaCult - Centre for the Study of Fashion and Cultural Production,Milan, Italy.

P. van Dongen (24 March 2015) ‘3D Printed Responsive Wearables’ at Symposium Fashion Responsive, HEAD, Geneva.

J. Teunissen (24 March 2015) ‘The Future of Fashion is Now’ at Symposium Fashion Responsive, HEAD, Geneva.

P. van Dongen (13-17 March 2015) 'Ready to wear? Body informed 3D printed fashion' at SXSW Panelpicker 2015, SXSW, Austin.

P. Tognazzi, P. van Dongen & R. Zoontjens (16 October 2014) 'Body-Informed 3d Printed Clothing' at ArcIntex Network Conference, Technical University Eindhoven.

A. Smelik (30 October 2014) 'How Does a Body-Without-Organs Dress?', conference paper, Fashion Thinking. Theory, History, Practice, International Conference, University of Southern Denmark, Kolding.

J. Teunissen (1 November 2014) 'Longing for a future society', conference paper, Fashion Thinking. Theory, History, Practice, International Conference, University of Southern Denmark, Kolding.

L. Toussaint (30 October 2014) ‘Smart, Stirring, Swallowable: Thinking the New Material(ism)s of Fashionable Technology’, conference paper, Fashion Thinking. Theory, History, Practice, International Conference, University of Southern Denmark, Kolding.

L. Toussaint & P. van Dongen (9 September 2014) ‘Ready to Wear? The Possibilities, Potential and Pitfalls of 3D Printed Fashion’, conference paper, Ambience ‘14 &10i3, Tampere University of Technology, Finland.

L. Toussaint (5 June 2014) ‘Getting Things Moving: Shape Memory Materials in Fashion’, conference paper, Things to Remember. Materializing Memories in Art and Popular Culture, Radboud University, Nijmegen.

L. Toussaint (2 May 2014) ‘From Hardware to Softwear: The Future Memories of Smart Fashion’, conference paper, Memories of the Future, Chelsea College of Art and Design (UAL) & Institute of Modern Languages Research, London.

L. Toussaint (23-24 January 2014) 'Cut from the Same Cloth. Fashion featuring Technology', conference paper, New Conversations in Fashion, Fashion Colloquia 2014, Amsterdam Fashion Institute, Amsterdam.

Crafting Wearables is funded by NWO (Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research).